Geography of Nicaragua

Hydrography


While it can be said that Nicaragua has three main watersheds (Pacific, Lakes, Caribbean), there are in fact many others. The Lakes watershed is a direct result of the Great Rift, as rivers that were previously heading to the Pacific Ocean (flowing west from the Central Highlands) were diverted as the depression formed. The major watersheds can be mapped following roughly —although not exactly— the same patterns of the three main geo¬graphic regions.

A watershed encompasses all the territory drained by a river and its tributaries, from its point of origin to its drainage point. Consequently it would be absurd to think that the country only has three main watersheds.

Besides the actual length of a river, it is also important to take into account how much water it carries. Common sense dictates that the larger the watershed, the larger the amount of water that will be carried since the likelihood of tributaries is then higher. Precipitation will, naturally, also play a significant role in the amount of water carried, as will the type of soil that forms the riverbed.


Characteristics of Waterflow

The course of a river is determined by the topography around it and the type of rocks over which it circulates (e.g. limestone will present less resistance to water flow than granite so that the river’s course would likely be straighter through limestone). Surely, anyone who has ever seen a map will have noticed that no river travels in a straight line. This is because the gravitational pull of the earth causes water to run in a wavy pattern. This is a type of manifestation of the coreolis effect. The pressure points created by this pattern are responsible, in part, for the sinuous nature of the riverbanks. The direction that a river takes, consequently, will be determined by the tract that it manages to carve as it seeks the lowest lying areas until it eventually meets its drainage point.

The force of the current is also a function of the topography. The rivers descending from Dipilto, for instance, drop more than fourteen hundred metres in less than thirty kilometres, while the San Juan, flowing through a valley, descends barely thirty metres in its one hundred and ninety kilometre run.

Watersheds

Following we will take a brief look at some of the most important watersheds in the country. The importance of a watershed, for our purposes, may stem from either the size of the territory drained, its economic potential,its historical value, or its ecological characteristics.


Gulf of Fonseca Watershed

The two longest rivers of the Pacific Region drain in the Gulf of Fonseca: Negro and Estero Real. The Negro originates and drains in Honduras, but most of its course runs through Nicaragua. Currently, there is a border dispute in this area (the territorial limit between Nicaragua and Honduras is established in part by the Negro River) stemming from the change the river suffered with Hurricane Mitch in 1998. The Estero Real (137km, including the Tecomapa and Villanueva from which junction it forms) runs through an extensive plain barely above sea level. This fact makes seawater to pour inland for several kilometres at high tide. Its flow ends in deltas and serpentine estuaries with mangroves, used for shrimp farming.


Pacific Ocean Watershed

All the rivers that drain in the Pacific Ocean (with the exception of the Negro and Estero Real) are short and do not carry much water. In fact, some of them dry up com-pletely during the dry season. The Pacific Ocean watershed can be divided into three sub-units:

Maribios: the rivers that originate on the Maribios volcanic range emerge in the Chinandega and Leon plains. Subterranean springs and rainfall feed them.

Diriamba Highlands (Pueblos Plateau and Managua Highlands): there are numerous parallel currents ending in sandy beach-heads that start in the Diriamba Highlands and are responsible for the shape of the coastline along this area.

Rivas: the rivers that originate along the Rivas isthmus are the shortest of the Pacific Region. They flow through low hills and some of them dry up completely at certain points of their course during the dry season.


Lake Managua (Xolotlan)

Lake Managua, or Xolotlan, is the second largest lake in Middle America. It has an area of 1,025 square kilometres. Its depth is no greater than seventeen metres. Its surface area varies with the dry and rainy seasons. It is barely thirty-nine metres above sea level.

The lake has an irregular shape, being divided into two masses connected by a strait between the Chiltepe and Panami peninsulas. It is surrounded by volcanic formations: Momotombo; Momotombito; Chiltepe peninsula; as well as the crater lagoons of Xiloa, Nejapa, Asososca, and Tiscapa, the last three found within the capital’s city limits (Asososca provides Managua with drinking water).

managua Its waters are not clear due to the alluvial debris carried by several rivers in the form of muddy currents along the northern shore, and the sewage from the city of Managua on the south¬eastern shore. The amount of sediments, combined with the shallow nature of the lack, makes the waters seem permanently muddy. Although most people attribute the extensive pollution of the lake to the direct dumping of Managua’s raw sewage, that is not the case. Managua’s sewage system has contaminated an area of 8 square kilometres, which is not much compared to the size of the lake. Rather, other reasons are responsible: pesticides and fertilisers washed onto the rivers that feed the lake; sewage of communities located along its shores; and dumping of dangerous chemicals from factories. Pollution levels will lower thanks to recent legislation banning direct dumping of chemicals and the construction of a new sewage treatment facility to service Managua’s more than one million inhabitants. There is also a new project underway to clean up the lake and it is expected that by 2015 its waters will be suitable for human consumption.

Contrary to popular belief, the Tipitapa River is not the drainage point of Lake Managua. Occasionally, after heavy rains, the Xolotlan does overflow into the Tipitapa River and pours into Lake Nicaragua. Such was the case when Hurricane Mitch hit the country in 1998 and the two lakes became virtually one huge mass of water. Normally, however, Lake Managua’s waters are lost to evaporation due to the aquatic mirror exposed to the summer winds. Indeed, Lake Managua is almost permanently covered by a thin layer of clouds during the day. The high peaks of the Central Region protect these clouds from the winds so that they act as a mirror along with the water, multiplying the evaporative effect of the rays of the sun.

mirror tipitapa













Lake Managua Watershed

Four large rivers originating in Esteli, Jinotega, and Matagalpa pour their waters into Lake Managua’s northern shore (Sinecapa, Viejo, Pacora, and San Antonio), as do many smaller ones.

The southern shore does not receive any rivers due to the porous volcanic soil in this area that absorbs the waters much like a sponge. This condition keeps the zone between Tipitapa and the international airport permanently humid, causing yearly flooding of the peripheral settlements around Managua.


Lake Nicaragua (Cocibolca)

With an area of 8,264 square kilometres, it is the sec-ond larg¬est lake in Latin America, only surpassed by Lake Titicaca (between Bolivia and Peru). It has an oval shape, and its main axis has a length of 160 kilometres and a width of about 60 kilometres. Its altitude is thirty-one metres above sea level, and a nineteen kilometre-wide isthmus separates it from the Pacific Ocean. Its waters drain into the Caribbean Sea via the San Juan River.

The lake exhibits numerous islands, most of which are of volcanic origin. Among the more important ones are: Ometepe (276km² in area), an important tourist attraction formed by volcanoes Concepcion and Maderas; Zapatera island, the remains of a highly eroded volcano, and where ancient Pre-Columbian petrogliphs and ceramics can be found; the Granada islets, an archipelago of some three hundred tiny islands, a major tourist destination, product of either an avalanche or a volcanic explosion; and the Solentiname archipelago, facing the city of San Carlos (capital of Rio San Juan Department), which houses great variety of birds and an art co-operative.

lake bottom
Sketch of island formation in Lake Nicaragua

isletas
Sunset over Granada Islets on Lake Nicaragua


On the western shore, we find the Cacaguapa islands, La Pelona, Nancital archipelago, San Bernardo and San Bernardito, El Boquete, and Carrizal.

This magnificent lake, which the Spanish conquistadors called the Fresh Water Sea, is home to very diverse aquatic life. Among other interesting animals, the lake is home to fresh water swordfish and large bull sharks (Carcharhinus leucas). Most Nicaraguans seem to believe that these sharks are fresh water, but that is a misconception. These animals have adapted to surviving in both fresh and salt-water environments and use the San Juan River as the gateway to the lake from the Caribbean Sea.


Lake Nicaragua Watershed

The rivers that drain their waters on Lake Nicaragua can be classified by their drainage point into those that empty along the Rivas isthmus; those that empty their waters on the northeastern shore; and those that flow towards the southern shore of the Lake, along the Costa Rican border.

Most of the rivers that drain their waters on the western shore of the lake are very small, much like their counterparts that drain on the Pacific Ocean, and irrigate rich agricultural lands (Ostayo, Majaste, El Limon, Enmedio, Gil Gonzalez, Ñocarime, and Las Lajas). On the northern portion close to Granada, however, we have two slightly larger rivers: Ochomogo (with an extension of 25 kilometres), born west of Nandaime, drains across Zapatera island and carries a large amount of sediments that are slowly breaching the gap between the mainland and the island; and Manares, which originates south of Mombacho volcano and drains a series of small lagoons located at the foot of the volcano. These are fairly untouched and house rich fauna.

The Eastern Shore of the lake is the drainage point to much larger and economically important rivers. These rivers have their points of origin on the Central Highlands. Among these are: Malacatoya (122 kilometres in length), with its drainage point located on the northeastern shore of the lake, is dammed at Las Banderas plains forming the artificial lake Las Canoas which is used to generate hydroelectric power on the one hand, and irrigate agricultural lands on other. Its main tributaries are the Boaco, Teosinal, and Ayoja Rivers. Next to its drainage point, which is marshy, there are extensive rice fields. Following immediately to the southeast, we find the Tecolostote River, with an extension of 55 kilometres, which is susceptible to periodic flooding. Next we find the Mayales River, with a length of 80 kilometres, formed by the junction of the Cuapa and Pirae Rivers, which borders the city of Juigalpa and provides it with drinking water. Following the Mayales, we find three rivers that drain the Chontales plains: the Ojocuapa, Lovago, and Acoyapa. These rivers irrigate extensive pastures used for cattle raising. The Tepenaguasapa, with an extension of 62 kilometres, irrigates rice fields. Finally, the Camastro and Tule Rivers descend from the Yolaina mountain range on the southeastern shore of the lake, and were used to deliver precious woods.

The rivers that drain on the southern shore of Lake Nicaragua originate in Costa Rica in the Guanacaste volcanic ranges. They include the Sapoa, Frio, Orosi, and Toro (among many others). The Guatuso Indians inhabited the areas around these rivers in the 1800s, until rubber tree workers and loggers displaced them.


los guatusos San Juan River Watershed


The San Juan River drains Lake Nicaragua. It has an extension of 190 kilometres from San Carlos (drainage point of Lake Nicaragua) to San Juan del Norte (drainage point of San Juan River). It reaches widths of up to 300 metres in some locations. Rapids exist at different points along its course as the river descends thirty metres from the lake to the Caribbean Sea. In front of El Castillo, a colonial fortress, the rapids make navigation difficult, which was one of the reasons why the Spanish authorities decided to build the fortress at that location.

Before reaching its destination, it splits in two: the largest branch goes on a southerly course into Costa Rica, draining at Barra del Colorado; while on the Nicaraguan side the other branch splits into several narrower currents that eventually form a delta before draining in the San Juan del Norte Bay. The southern bank of this river determines the border between Nicaragua and Costa Rica for much of its course, and the use of its waters has been a source of territorial conflict between the two countries up to the present (see section on Political Geography – Current Territorial Conflicts). The San Juan River, as attested by the Cañas-Jerez Treaty signed in 1858, belongs exclusively to Nicaragua.


indio-maiz reserve Indio, Maiz, and Punta Gorda Rivers Watershed

These three rivers go down from the Yolaina and Chiripa Mountains. The area is almost totally uninhabited, and is now part of the Biological Reserve Indio-Maiz. They drain in San Juan del Norte Bay. Their watershed covers and area of 13,000 square kilometres and is ecologically important because of the rich biodiversity it houses. There is also great potential for ecological tourism. More recently, the Biological Reserve Indio-Maiz, with an extension of close to 264,000 hectares, has been declared by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) as a World Biosphere Reserve. The UNESCO classification is aimed at promoting and showing a balanced relationship between humankind and the environment. Nicaragua, in turn, acquired the responsibility of protecting the Reserve.

The Punta Gorda River shows a large number of rapids and small drops. Settlers of the Nueva Guinea region have taken residence along the first few kilometres of its 115 kilometre run and deforested along its banks.


Escondido River Watershed

The Escondido River, with a length of 88 kilometres, is formed by the junction of three major rivers: Sikia, Mico, and Rama. Its total watershed, then, is of some 13,000 square kilometres.

The Sikia and Mico Rivers originate in the Chontales hills and are used to irrigate pasturelands for livestock production. The Rama originates in Yolaina and its course covers extensive tracts of rain forest.

The Escondido is navigable along its whole course from Rama City up to its drainage point in Bluefields Bay and it is still used as the most efficient access route to the Caribbean other than air travel. Sadly, however, deforestation during the past fifty years has made the river susceptible to flooding as the riverbanks have lost their strength and the riverbed has widened disproportionately. As the trees disappear, their roots can no longer protect the banks from the erosive strength of excess waters. Little by little, then, the banks lose their shape and the river becomes wider. An extra side effect of this process is that the amount of sediments being dumped into Bluefields Bay is increasing excessively, thus putting at risk the survival of Bluefields Lagoon itself and forcing the local authorities to spend much needed capital resources in dragging the lagoon bed.


Wawashan,Kurinwas, Grande de Matagalpa Rivers Watershed

The Wawashan and Kurinwas Rivers drain their waters in Pearl Lagoon. Their courses run through rain forests from which were extracted precious woods in the past. Rich wildlife can be found throughout their watersheds.

The Grande de Matagalpa River is the second longest of Nicaragua, with 465 kilometres in length, and a watershed of some 18,000 square kilometres. It originates in the mountains north of the city of Matagalpa, flowing on a southward direction towards the valley of Sebaco, where it turns east. Among its numerous tributaries, the Tuma is the most important.

The Tuma, with a 180-kilometre course, originates close to San Rafael del Norte in the Department of Jinotega. It has been dammed at Apanas valley, forming the artificial Lake Apanas used to generate hydroelectric power. Its main tributaries are Yaoska, Iyas, Wilike, and Lisawe, where Sumu villages used to be located up until recently. It joins the Grande de Matagalpa at San Pedro del Norte, from which point the Grande is navigable, acquiring widths of up to 300 metres.


Prinzapolka River Watershed

The Prinzapolka River’s watershed covers an area of about 8,000 square kilometres. The river itself has a length of 245 kilometres and half of its course is navigable by small vessels.

The Prinzapolka’s main tributary is the Bambana (143km), which is very sinuous. Both rivers descend from the mining districts of Siuna, Bonanza and Rosita, and were used in the past to transport minerals.

Closer to the Caribbean, the Prinzapolka runs through an extensive marshy area and splits in two: Prinzapolka proper and Wappasiksa. At one point, these rivers used to carry lumber logged around the dense forests that used to exist along their courses. Much of the forests in the Caribbean Region have decreased in size due to the undeterred expansion of the agricultural frontier on the one hand, and the unscrupulous exploitation of the forests’ resources on the other (see section on Climate). .


Kukulaya and Wawa Rivers Watershed

The Kukulaya and Wawa rivers have extensions of 140 and 160 kilometres respectively, running through a heavily forested region west of Puerto Cabezas in the northeastern portion of the country. Both are navigable along their latter twenty-five and fifty kilometres respectively. Up until the first quarter of the twentieth century, large banana plantations existed along their courses.

The Kukulaya drains in Wouhnta lagoon while the Wawa drains in Karata lagoon. The main tributary of the Wawa is the Likus, which drains the pine-covered Miskito plains.


Coco, Segovia, or Wanki River Watershed

The Coco, Segovia, or Wanki River (depending on the chosen language and historical period of preference) is the longest in Central America, with an extension of 680 kilometres, almost crossing the isthmus from side to side.

It originates from the junction of two rivers: the Comali (Honduran) and the Tapacali (Nicaraguan), close to El Espino. Along its northern shore, it has sandy banks were gold may be found. Its main tributaries in this initial part of its course are the Esteli, Yali, Monte Cristo, Jicaro, Pantasma, Cua, and Poteca.

Along the central portion of its course, it forms canyons with treacherous rapids, making navigation difficult even for native canoes. The canyons can attain depths of up to ninety metres. This area is barely inhabited. It is here that it receives its two main tributaries: the Bocay (115 kilometres long) and the Waspuk (138 kilometres) which is the sacred river of the Sumu natives.

East of the Waspuk, the Coco becomes navigable by medium-sized vessels as it exits the Central Highlands and runs trough a broad plain dotted with numerous Miskito villages. It drains at Gracias a Dios Cape, forming a small delta. The amount of sediments that this river carries darkens the water of the Caribbean Sea at the point of entry and for several kilometres off shore.




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